Now the resin in the joints has set they can be cleaned up. They are carefully sanded and in my case because I had stained the ply I had to be extra careful not to sand through the stain.
Even with the greatest of care this was never going to happen so I decided to stain the hull again.
Then I turned the hull over and cut the inside curve to shape on one of the decks.With this done I could then mark the curve on a scrap of mdf and then cut and use this to mark the second deck.
With that done the inside was given a final look over sanding where required and the tops of the decks were also sanded in readiness for a coat of resin.
This coat of resin on the inside and on the tops of the decks is purely to provide a little more resistance to abrasion than varnish alone. Some people also put a layer of fibreglass cloth on the inside of the boat for extra strength and others just use coats of paint or varnish alone. The choice is yours and is dictated by your intended use of the boat. My current client has no intention of throwing this boat over rapids or waterfalls so a coat of resin will suffice.
With the resin left to set I turned my attention to the outwales. These are supplied with the kit with splices in them that I glued up and are of square section.
In order to improve their looks I decided to taper them. This will also reduce the weight a touch too.
Unfortunately the timber had warped a little so I couldn't cut the tapers on my circular saw but instead had to mark them out and plane them on the end of my bench by hand taking care not to tear the grain.